Thursday, January 8, 2009

Makeup Tip Week, Tip #4: Blush and Face Contouring

I don't wear makeup every day, so I know I shouldn't criticize some of the choices made by those who do. If there is one thing that bothers me, however, it's that a few people will have on a full face of makeup... and no blush.

I can understand the desire to not wear blush. Unfortunately, with blush, there is a fine line between looking like this:

and looking like this:


But that shouldn't deter you from wearing blush. Why? Because the decision to not wear blush for the sake of looking "natural" can actually have the opposite effect:


Foundation is meant to even out your skin tone. Unfortunately, the only way it can do that is by layering color on top of your skin (like paint). While a more sheer formula will let through some of your skin's natural pigmentation, if your skin's condition requires heavier coverage, ain't nothin' coming through that! So, if you don't want to look like a lifeless mannequin, your only resort is to add back some color to your face.

Blush these days come in a variety of colors, from nude peach to hot pink. If I could recommend some products here, a good, "natural" color for gals with fair/light to medium toned skin is Jane Blushing Cheeks in Blushing Petal (the color is actually a light peachish pink, nothing like the swatch on their website). Darker gals should look into something a bit more pigmented and saturated in color, like NYX Powder Blush in Mocha or Pinky, or even Desert Rose (anything in the lighter pink or peach ranges would just be lost on you).

How to apply? Sparingly!!! Most blushes these days are highly pigmented, so a little goes a long way. If you feel like you need more color, then start slow and build the color rather than going all the way at your first go. Depending on the shape of your face, a touch on the apples of your cheeks (the area of your cheeks just under your eyes that, when you smile, pop out and look like little apples) is great for a natural look. Some people like to extend the color towards their ears. This is fine for a more polished look, but if you want something more natural, just touch up the apples a little.

For us gals with a little more "volume" to our faces, it's best to keep the blush on the rear half of the apples (on my face, that's just about under the outer corners of my eyes) and back. For us, coloring our cheeks in full gives us a more cherubic look, accentuating the "fullness" of our faces.

Swipe on a little too much blush? No problem! Rather than going through the pain of wiping it off and starting over, just go over your cheeks with a stroke or two (or three or ten) of face powder or powder foundation to lessen the color.

Some people take advantage of blush, but they decide to not contour. I can understand that - contouring is hard and a bit time consuming. Unfortunately, as with the reason for putting on blush, a little contouring and highlighting helps bring back some life and definition into an otherwise completely whitewashed face.

You can find many face contouring tutorials in makeup books and online. My favorite YouTube beauty vloggers, Panacea81, Xteeener, and Scandalous Beauty, all have videos breaking down and explaining all the different steps. All three ladies explain the concept far better than I ever could, so rather than me trying to explain anything here, I'd rather you watch their videos.

I do have to say a little something here. Don't get fooled by the cosmetics industry by thinking you can only contour with products specifically called "highlighter" or "bronzer". These products are labeled and packaged differently, but there is nothing special about them. They are made with pretty much the exact same formulas as a regular blush or eyeshadow. In fact, my favorite highlighters are actually eyeshadows (MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl and CoverGirl Eye Enhancers 1-Kit Shadows in Snow Blossom and Pink Chiffon).

Makeup, like clothes, is merely a tool for your own creative expression. If I've learned anything about makeup in the short time I've decided to wear it, it's that you shouldn't feel as though you don't have the liberty to try something new each time you put it on. It's only makeup - nothing permanent. Have fun with it!

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