Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Makeup Tip Week, Tip #2: Liquid Foundation Application with a Kabuki Brush

For those of you who don't know, this is a kabuki brush:


They sell them almost everywhere they sell cosmetics, and almost every cosmetics company makes one. They'll have different names (Urban Decay calls their's the "Big Buddha Brush", while Benefit's is the "Bluff Puff Powder Brush"), and range in price from $10 to $100. Other than the quality of the bristles, they all serve the same purpose.

The one that I currently use is the Sephora brand kabuki brush ($22). I initially bought it to use with my mineral foundation. When I decided I didn't really like mineral foundation, that's when I decided to put it to use with regular, liquid foundation.

For those of you who haven't jumped on the foundation brush bandwagon, many people actually recommend that you use a brush to apply foundation. Not only does it cut down on the germ factor, but it also allows you to use less product (the foundation won't absorb into the bristles like it will into your fingers or a blending sponge). I also like using a brush because it allows you to blend your foundation better (no streaks; just an even, airbrushed finish). On top of that, with a brush, you don't get your hands all gunky or fill up your trash can with a billion little sponges.

Prior to using a kabuki brush, my foundation brush of choice was the MAC 187:


I LOVED this brush for foundation application. The only problem was that it took FOREVER to blend. Seriously, it would take me about 20 minutes just to get my foundation to look right. I can't even imagine what I'd have to go through if I used a regular foundation brush:


As you can see, while the 187 is round and fluffy, this foundation brush is stiff and flat, like a paint brush. Not exactly ideal for blending foundation on your face.

Anyway, the reason why it took so long for me to apply foundation was that the brush could only blend a small area of the face at a time. This is where the big kabuki comes in. Actually, I saw Erin from Scandalous Beauty first do this in one of her YouTube tutorials and decided to try it myself.


My foundation application went from 20 minutes, down to 3. I was sold.

How to apply? Pour a little bit of foundation (I do 1 1/2 squirts - about 1/4 tsp?) onto a palette, dish, or the back of your hand (my personal choice - your body heat will help the foundation spread a little easier). Rather than wiping the foundation onto the kabuki brush, lightly set the brush into the foundation and roll it around like a video game joystick. (You don't want to pick up all the foundation at once, so just dab a little at a time.) Now, go to town.

Many people recommend starting from the center of your face and working your way out. For people who have stuff they need to hide (like me), you can work out those areas first, if you'd like. You don't need to use a heavy hand when applying foundation. Just buff the brush over your face, kind of like when you wax the car or polish the silver (a little pressure, but not too hard). Some people use sweeping motions, but I like using circular motions (wax on, wax off). When you reach areas that are a little narrow (like the bridge of your nose), just squeeze the bristles of the brush together to form a more narrow shape. Dab on a little more foundation to the brush as needed, and remember to blend out your hair and jaw lines (there's nothing worse than when you can see the foundation demarcation lines on your face).

Depending on how fast you work, your foundation application should be done within 5 minutes, and your face should end up looking immaculate, like it really has just been airbrushed. I usually use the same kabuki brush to apply powder afterwards to set my foundation, but that only takes a few seconds. Clean up for the brush? I wash it out at the end of the day with a drop of regular shampoo (remember to rinse thoroughly!).

Anyway, give it a try! I have to say, though: it did take me a couple of tries of putting foundation on with a brush to get it right. But once I got it down and saw how great foundation could really make you look, I couldn't understand why I didn't do it sooner.

OTHER TIPS

4 comments:

Missy said...

I use my Bobbi Brown natural fiber kabuki-style face brush to get that airbrushed finish with Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua. It's the only way to get that airbrushed look.

Anonymous said...

I used to use my fingers, but my sister leant me a new kabuki brush which she wasn't going to use, and I've been converted! It's so much easier to blend, and created such a lovely finish, you're absolutely right.

Anonymous said...

Try it with the airbrush makeup. I just bought some Glam Air from Amazon. Wish I would have found this sooner.

Anonymous said...

That skunk brush looks very much like a stipple Mac tho doesn’t call their sink a stipple But it’s great for stippling on your foundation and then you go in and blend and buff with a kabuki- That is why it took you so long

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